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| Saturday, 20-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 13 (52) - Dahab, Egypt
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Another day in Dahab - why not another dive? This I time I went south of Dahab to an area known as the Islands. Went with Michelle to celebrate her getting the PADI qualification over the past three days. It was another shore dive...had to walk out across rock and reef to a crevasse into which we submerged. This proved to be quite difficult as the water was quite choppy and was pushing us about like so much flotsam. Finally we got in, swam through small tunnel and out into the reef.
When the dive was described, the dive master explained that it was perfect for beginners. The dive required great buoyancy control as we were constantly rising and dropping over ridges in the reef. There were also relatively strong currents around the two coral islands that made up the dive site. Basically, the dive wound around the two small, submerged islands that were covered in an assortment of soft and hard corals. The reef itself was still recovering from an earthquake several years in the past.
There were not as much life around the reef compared to previous dives at the Blue Hole and Ras Abu Gallum but it was still beautiful. Most of the beauty lay in the way the coral had grown over the islands.
The most challenging part of the dive was the entry and exit. Having to put on and take off your flippers on in choppy water when the ground beneath you is slippery and full of holes is not the most fun thing in the world to do. Entering and exiting the crevasse was also abit difficult - the water constantly pushing you the wrong way...you think you have enetered but then a wave wouldcome along and push you up and onto the ledge again.
Conquering that, an enjoyable dive followed and I was very happy with my buoyancy control - if only I could control my breathing better!
After getting back to Dahab, I did a bit of shopping with Merren and Michelle before getting a shave at the barbers like I did in Cairo. I was lathered up, shaven and then plucked with a cotton string - even my eyebrows!! The pain is exquisite but you come out all fresh looking and glowing...but it does bring a tear to the eye when I remeber it being done!
A few beers at Adam's Bar by the Lighthouse and then off to the Blue Beach again for dinner and another gorgeous steak. Once again I was totally knackered and falling asleep over dinner.
Absolutely loved Dahab, the Red Sea and the diving...a definite place to return to.
On a sad note though. Today I found out that my mp3 player died a terrible death. I could no longer access the photos stored upon it and all 3,000 songs were no longer to be heard.  [Note: on my return to Dubs I managed to retrieve my photos but the mp3 player has now gone beyond this world.]
* Some of the pics are from my fellow travellers.
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| Friday, 19-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 12 (51) - Dahab, Egypt
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Yet another early rise. This time for a couple of adventure dives with Stu, Merren and Bryce. First stop, the Canyon - an opening in the sea floor that drops to 30 metres below and continues deeper to beyond 50 metres.
We began diving from shore into a lagoon. We exited the lagoon over a small saddle and down a gentle slope to the entrance to the canyon. At the edge of the canyon we were 18 metres beneath the surface. Stepping off the edge of the canyon we dropped another twelve metres to the canyon floor. A few metres up from where we landed the canyon opened up into a small cavern know as the Fishbowl.
It was here that we were to test the effects of narcosis on the body and mind by playing a couple of games dealing with coordination and thought. Prior to the dive we had to tap numbers on a board from one to twenty-five against the clock. Our times were noted and then we began the dive. In the cavern we repeated this process now 30 metres below the surface where nitrogen narcosis should start to affect a diver. Narcosis is, amongst other things, meant to slow down thought processes and affect judgement. My time on the board game actually improved by one second when I was thirty metres below...I'm a freak!
In the other test the instructor would hold out his two hands with a number of fingers displayed. We were to do the same but add two to the total. This was a much easier test than the first and no real problems or errors came about in the group.
Testing done we exited the Fishbowl through a small passage of about two metres in diameter and back out onto the gentle slope above the canyon. The passageway was slightly off putting - the closest I've ever come to claustrophobia. However, on exiting the passageway we saw the coolest looking scorpionfish - a Red Sea Walkman. Looked very much like a piece of soft coral...in fact I would have missed it completely if not for the instructor pointing it out. Stopped for a few minutes on the way up and saw a fish somewhat like a flathead beautifully camouflaged on the sandy base on the sea floor. After the safety stop we exited the water and made our way to the Blue Hole.
The second dive of the day was a multilevel dive from the Bells to the Blue Hole. Once again we had a few hours break for lunch and relaxation before trotting on up to the Bells. The Bells is a chimney like chute in the reef wall except that there is no wall facing out into the Gulf of Aqaba. The chute drops down 30 metres to an archway and out into the deep blue.
We climbed into the water and were met with a scorpion fish and a lion fish in a small crevasse in the reef wall. Diving down head first we exited the chute through the archway at thirty metres. Diving through the archway out into the open gave the sensation of flying...knowing that there was nothing beneath us but water for another 750 plus metres.
Staring out from the wall was amazing. Nothing but blue - all shades of blue - and the occasional shadow of a fish swimming close by. We swam along the reef wall towards the Blue Hole, changing our depth the closer we got to our destination. Once again we surrounded by the life that hung close to the reef wall. It swam and drifted around us as we slowly made our way. A myriad of colours in the fish and in the coral. Occasionally one would get very brave and swim right up to our face masks.
We dove over the saddle and into the lagoon that is the Blue Hole but still well below the snorkellers - a world of our own. The dive lasted about forty minutes but felt so much longer. A few happy snaps for the memories and we exited the lagoon.
It was yet another fantastic day. Dahab and the Red Sea proving well worth the wait and leaving me a very happy camper. The water there is just plain gorgeous and I doubt that any other place outside of the Red Sea will have such a proliferation of life. Most of all, I was extremely glad to have completed the PADI qualification in Ireland so that I could just dive and enjoy myself.
Though the four dives to date had left me totally knackered (though to be fair it was due more to a total lack of sleep) it had also left me with a feeling of elation. I had been worried about whether I would be suited to diving - whether it would be something that I could really enjoy. No problems there though and all I can say is when is the next dive?
Dinner that night provided the meal of the tour so far. We lashed out and ate at the best restaurant in Dahab - the Blue Beach. Here I was to be thoroughly delighted with a properly cooked medium rare steak that was just divine. A real treat - simply gorgeous. Though once again I struggled to make my way through the entire dinner - one of these days I can see myself falling asleep into a plate of mash or something! 
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| Thursday, 18-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 11 (50) - Dahab, Egypt
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Camel safari day.
An early rise saw us (me, Marÿke, Grant, Bryce and Simon) ride a jeep out to the Blue Hole for breakfast while all our diving gear was loaded up onto the camels. For an hour and a half we rode the camels along the coast up to the national park of Ras Abu Gallum.
It was one of the most uncomfortable rides I have ever had to endure. The saddle was about two sizes to small for me so that every step had me cracking my nuts against the front strut of the saddle and banging the base of my spine against the back strut. In the end I opted for a semi-side saddle approach. The views and the landscape also helped to take my mind off of how uncomfortable the ride was. An amazing coastline. The mountains drop straight into the Gulf of Aqaba...at points the track is just over two camels wide.
Finally we made it to the first dive site. It was quite a windy day which had made the water quite choppy - something that had me a little concerned along the ride...shore entry in choppy conditions is not fun. However, the dive site was sheltered by a headland and the entry point was in a small cove. Visibility was still affected though.
Quite an easy dive followed. We geared up and entered the water on a small beach. The bottom dropped pretty quickly a few metres from the shore. From the beach we followed the reef around the cove. The reef consisted mostly of hard corals and once again an abundance of fish darted about as we dove along the wall. We dropped to 18 metres pretty quickly - it was the deepest I had ever been. I had some difficulty equalising...the pressure on my ears was unbelievable. For most of the dive we hovered around the 9 metre mark.
I'm still amazed by the amount of life that lives along the reefs...it was far beyond expectations. The only downside of the dive was seeing the damage left behind by careless divers and snorkellers...broken coral, discarded fishing lines and rubbish.
After the dive we had a few hours break in order to reduce the amount of nitrogen in our blood. During this time we had lunch, had a swim and laid about relaxing. Then we loaded up a truck and took our gear a short drive up the coast to the second dive site.
This site had so much more life than any of the previous places I had snorkelled or dove at before. Schools of fish drifting just off of the reef, a small moray eel, trigger fish, scorpion fish, a stone fish, lion fish, parrot fish and best of all, a green sea turtle!
The turtle was amazing...I sucked up so much air when it came into view. It was about a metre and a half long with a shell diameter of about 90 centimetres (so the dive master informed us - it looked a lot bigger than that!) The dive master estimated the turtle to be about 50 years old.
The turtle just glided without any effort through the water - a most amazing sight. It swam straight towards us - we had invaded its territory I suppose. We spread out in a semi-circle around it; about three to four metres distant. Very cool just hovering there with this wonderful creature just metres away. The turtle had a go at a few of us before we moved away and it swam off out into the deep blue.
The dive up until that point had been fantastic. The turtle really topped it off though...fantastic, a real buzz. Such an amazing creature.
After the dive we quickly packed up all the gear and headed back to Dahab once again on the backs of camels. The trek back was at dusk...the sun was setting behind the mountains. Already on somewhat of a high for seeing the turtle, the beauty of the trek back left me with an unbelievable feeling...this is life. These moments are the ones to look back on when your old and grey. Everything just felt so right and good. The trek back was just amazing due to the quiet and the sunset...incredibly tranquil...a time for reflection.
Arrived back in Dahab on a high but totally wrecked. So glad I did this tour...a fantastic day yet again.
Didn't have my camera with me this day, and forgot to use the underwater one (duh!).
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| Wednesday, 17-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 10 (49) - Dahab, Egypt
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After a brekkie with my fellow caravaneers and the many flies, it was off to the Blue Hole for the majority of the day. After an entertaining ride in the back of a jeep over a dirt track, we rounded a bend to find a lagoon of about 40 metres in diameter ringed by a thick reef, the water a most amazing blue colour.
The Blue Hole is infamous for taking the lives of many divers trying to push the limits. Inside the Blue Hole the depth is approximately 140 metres. An archway opens out at the bottom into the sea beyond the reef wall where the bottom quickly drops to about 800 metres. Further out the depth exceeds 1,000 metres.
The water is brilliantly blue and clear. Visibility was over 20 meters. Coral covered every part of the reef wall in a rainbow of colours. All manner of fish darted about, along and in the reef - I thought that the Lighthouse had an abundance of life but it has nothing compared to the Blue Hole. More life here than in any other place I had ever seen. Pufferfish, lionfish, clown fish, scorpionfish, snapper, triggerfish, parrotfish and so many others.
A second snorkel, after a light meal, took us about 75 metres up the coast to a place called the Bells. A cleft in the reef wall that drops about 30 metres and is open on the side facing out into the sea. We exited the Bells and snorkelled our way along the reef wall back to the Blue hole. On one side was the constant colour and teeming life along the reef wall...on the other was an endless deep blue with the occasional dark shadow of life. It's quite daunting seeing all that blue out there and not knowing what may hide behind it.
We returned to Dahab mid-afternoon and did a bit more snorkelling off of the Lighthouse as the tide came in. Got a big day tomorrow for the camel safari and some diving up the coast.
A fantastic day.
This entry contains photos from my fellow travellers.
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| Tuesday, 16-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 9 (48) - Dahab, Egypt
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A most beautiful sunrise. That is what we were treated to just after awakening. The efforts of the previous night being well worth the view we had in the morning. The morning sun also enabled us to see for the first time the landscape that had been hidden by the nights dark cover...an amazing landcsape - stark and rugged. It was a wonderful awakening to the day.
Unfortunately, the tranquility of such a beautiful moment was marred by the loud "tourists" who had arrived moments before the suns rising. People dressed in hot pants and singlet tops complaining about how cold it is. Others whinging about a lack of facilities and seats. Actually quite funny now that I look back on it, but it did intrude on the moment.
After an hour of watching the sun rise we started to make our way back down the mountain to the truck. A much quicker descent than ascent as I skipped passed the queues of people and basically ran down the stairs of repentance. The others took their time and walked back down the camel trail. An excellent brekkie of pancakes, porridge and cornflakes awaited at the bottom.
A quick drive and we were in Dahab. Had heard that Dahab was the cruisiest of places...after a week touring tombs and temples that sounded just great. After sorting out the hotel rooms it was off for a bit of snorkelling at the Lighthouse. About 13-15 metres deep with clear, blue water and the most life I had ever seen under water to date - quite fantastic. Spent about two hours just gawking at all the life down there before lazing on the beach with a few beers for the remainder of the day.
One of the worst steaks ever for dinner...seems they don't know what rare means! Bugger! An early night yet again...absolutely knackered after the early rise and afternoon paddling in the sea.
* Some of the pics in this entry are from my fellow travellers.
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| Monday, 15-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 8 (47) - Mount Sinai, Egypt
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Early rise to join yet another convoy. A long day of driving - well sitting in the back ofthe truck really - in order to get to the Sinai Penninsular and to have a wee chat with the "Big Man" on top of Mount Sinai.
A pretty uneventful trip except for Paul's ridding himself of some tailgaters by braking heavily. Dolphins were spotted in the Red Sea as we drove by and cargo ships were traversing the Suez as we went under the canal.
Finally in the deep, dark of night we wound our way through the mountains to the base of Mount Sinai. After packing our sleeping gear, twelve of the group (including little ol' me) climbed the 3,000 plus steps of repentance to the summit while the remaining eight went up the camel trail
After getting a little lost we were guided to the steps and took a little over an hour and a half to reach the mountains peak. Sleep beckoned and alarms were set. Sunset awaited a few hours away.
Under an absolutely gorgeous night sky (I have never seen so many stars nor so many shooting stars), we drifted off
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| Sunday, 14-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 7 (46) - Luxor, Egypt
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A very early rise once again in order to visit the Karnak Temple complex - the largest of Egypt's many temple complexes.
Karnak is huge, stunning and spectacular. It was the most important place of worship in all of Egypt and was called Ipet-Isut - the "Most Perfect of Places".
A definite highlight is the Great Hypostyle Hall - 134 massive pillars decorated and painted with hieroglyphs. Obelisks and statues covered the complex...adorning every temple, courtyard and sanctuary...the place even had its own zoo!
On the outskirts of the temple complex, the cult temple of Ptah can be found. This temple contains some magnificently preserved statues (of which we saw one after a few bucks to the guards) where, when the pharoah needed to talk to Ptah, the temple priests would control the light into the room to give the pharoah his answer (lightening the room was a yes). In this way the priests could push their own agendas.
Karnak is just plain phenomenal. Even being quite worn out by the many temple we had already seen, Karnak still managed to blow me away. The sheer size of the place speaks volumes, the intricacy of its construction speaks more. Very, very cool!
On the way back to the hotel, Sam got groped by one of the little shits hanging about on the street. The boy followed us down the street looking to pass us, stopped in front of Sam, said hello, and then pinched her arse before running off. Definitely not a fan of the Egyptian people.
Had truck troubles so we missed the early convoy to Hurghada. No real big loss as we got to laze by the pool again and fluff about. After being trounced by Carina in the chess the day before, I had my revenge by demolishing her in the afternoon.
Finally, we joined a later convoy consisting of some 50 or so vehicles. A long drive of some 6 hours to Hurghada with the most gorgeous sunset (and there have been a few) over the desert and a few pints at a local bar on arrival. Great day.
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| Saturday, 13-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 6 (45) - Luxor, Egypt
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Awoken in the early hours of the morning to make the short journey to the Valley of the Kings and avoid the heat of the day. Of the many pharoah tombs in the valley, we got to visit three - being Ramses I, Ramses IV and Ramses IX...some of the group also took the opportunity to venture into King Tutankhamun's tomb.
The tombs contained detailed and beautiful hieroglyphics...the tomb of Ramses I in particular had vivid colouring as if painted in recent years. All of the tombs were dug some 30-40 metres into the mountainside. It would have been amazing to see these tombs in their glory, chock full of treasures and freshly decorated with hieroglyphs...as it was they were still very cool.
Next stop was the Valley of the Workers (Artisans) where we visited the tombs of Inherka and of Sennedjem. These tombs were in much better condition than the pharoah's tombs and much more colourful. Inside one of the tombs, one of the "guides" attempted to make a few extra bucks by expecting baksheesh for telling us to mind our heads as we entered the passageways (being about only 1.5 metres high it was pretty bloody obvious!)...obviously no payment was made.
This was followed by a donkey ride down to the temple of Ramses III (I think! It could have been Medinat Habu! Soo need to sit down with a map). Chooka almost took a tumble and was "unhorsed" as his donkey tripped over itself and Rob ran a marathon keeping up and taking photos for everyone. At the bottom everyone delighted in Egypt's only great food source - the Squizz - before entering the temple...the second largest temple complex in Egypt.
The "usual" columns and pillars greeted us upon entry as well as massive hieroglyphs on the entry pylons. The inner courtyards are filled with huge statues depicting Ramses III in various poses. our guide crammed as much information into our wee brains as he could in the tour of the complex - most of which has since seeped out or was never allowed entry in the first place.
Back on the bus and a quick visit to the truly colossus Colossi of Memnon - a pair of massive seated statues out in the middle of nowhere (the rest of the temple they sat in front of has long since been removed for building material).
Lunch at a local restaurant of the west bank of the Nile was next and then a quick boat ride across the river and back to the hotel for another afternoon by the pool. A game of mega-chess was entered (pieces about a third my height) against Carina where I was well and truly demolished...woe is me!
Dinner that evening was at the Kings Head on the other side of Luxor. Sixteen of us in a minivan and a 20 minute drive weaving through the streets avoiding pedestrians, other cars, cats, donkeys, carts...you name it - quite an experience.
The meal was shithouse to say the least - worst pizza I have ever eaten and the loudest group of Poms on the planet. Same kind of ride home in another minivan and off to bed.
* Again, some of the pics are from my fellow travellers.
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| Friday, 12-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 5 (44) - Kom Ombo, Edfu and Luxor, Egypt
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Woke up to the sound of the Nile waters lapping against the side of the felucca as it drifted towards Kom Ombo. Was treated to an amazing sunrise over the banks of the Nile and out into the desert...stunning!
We gently headed to the banks slightly upriver from Kom Ombo, had a light breakfast and then headed to the Temple of Kom Ombo. This temple still retains many of the colours in its hieroglyphs - some of them quite vivid. Huge columns and towering walls face the visitor as they stand before the temple entrance. Much of the Temple has been removed - I'm guessing the stone has been used for other building projects in the area over time. Kom Ombo stands impressively above the Nile but beyond that it not a great deal to write about...I say that knowing of better things to come i guess.
After Kom Ombo we finally board the truck. A montrously yellow behemoth that would be home until September 11. On the truck we joined the security convoy heading to Luxor. One stop along the way was the impressive Edfu Temple - I forget who it is dedicated to at the minute but will try and fix this later.
We were allowed a paltry 40 minutes (our truck being somewhat slowere tahn the buses) to visit this temple which was way too rushed. Edfu is huge...makes Kom Ombo look like an outhouse in comparison. Massive heiroglyphs adorn the temple walls, towering columns greet you as you walk into the forecourt and winding passageways filled with an assortment of scenes fill the inner temple. Some very jaw dropping stuff.
Back onto the ruck and back with the convoy we were off for Luxor. Arriving in the afternoon we first visited a jewellery shop where we got a free koshary lunch..some reneged and had McD's instead.
The afternoon was a free one - most just enjoyed the pool and relaxing around the hotel. Dinner at the hotel and an early night followed.
* Some of these photos are from my fellow travellers.
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| Thursday, 11-Aug-2005 00:00 |
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Day 4 (43) - Felucca on the Nile, Egypt
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A gorgeously hot Egyptian day welcomed us to the waters of the Nile and our felucca ride. The group piled onto two feluccas - twelve on one and eight on the other. It was an amazingly tranquil day of just lazing about on cushions and matresses as the banks of the Nile passed us by. Reading and cards formed the major part of the on boat entertainment but when the heat became too much - or when number ones became too much! - into the Nile we went (with little to no thought given as to what parasites we may pick up down the track!
But to hell with that...being dragged behind the feluccas is one cool experience.
The most wonderful sunset saw us into the evening where we tied up on the banks of the river for dinner. The night was passed with drinking, charades and word games before we all nodded off to sleep under a myriad of stars. This day was just sooo cruisy!
* Some of these photos come from my fellow travellers.
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